Monday, June 6, 2011

Conclusion of Road Trip

It's been another couple full but unrushed days since I last posted. Estelle and I headed off on Friday morning and stopped for port tasting a little before noon at the Boplass Estate. They are famous for their port and numerous posted signs informed guests of their awards. I enjoy port, though only in small doses because it is so sweet. It's sweeter than most other wines so port is usually served with dessert. (It's also more alcoholic since the fermentation process is halted early by the addition of distilled grape spirits.) After trying 7 varieties, I thought that maybe wine before lunch wasn't such a good idea! Estelle had been smart and asked for smaller samples than me since she was driving. :) My favorite was, of course, the most expensive--the vintage bottle that was aged for 12 years. Pink port was a close second.





The next road stop was supposed to be a cheese tasting, but we found out that they don't do tastings in the off-season, which was disappointing. After that, we found our way to Barrydale and its recycled art store, Magpie. The Obamas have a chandelier from Magpie somewhere in the White House--a fact that I heard multiple times from multiple people; Barrydale is very proud! Unfortunately, it was such a beautiful day that the shop owners were gone fishing, so we had to settle for peeking in windows. A nearby weaving workshop was open though, so we explored there. And then Estelle and I discovered the most wonderful hidden treasure across the street. I actually don't even know the store's name, but it had a treasure trove of goodies! Scarves, jewelry, incense, handmade bags, imported foods, etc, etc. Estelle was excited by Iranian dates while I was shocked to find Kewpie mayo from China!



Then it was on the road again as we headed to Montagu for the night. Montagu has to be the quaintest place I have ever stayed. All the houses are cute and white, nestled between trees and flowering bushes, while the large church stands proudly in the center of town. After watching the sun set in a blaze of pink and orange, Estelle and I bought pizza and took it back to the brewery/backpackers we stayed at. Eating good food and trying the house's best honeybeer in the gorgeous courtyard while enjoying the mild weather and being entertained with live music made the evening one to remember!





Saturday was the last day of our trip. After buying loads (and I mean LOADS) of the dried fruit that Montagu is famous for, we spent some time at the Nature Garden before heading to Robertson. Turns out Robertson was hosting the Wacky Wine festival and town was packed! We didn't do the wine festival, but we did take advantage of several markets that had sprung up for the weekend. At one market, Estelle and I bought food. She opted for the springbok meat pie but I was told I must try fetcook. Turns out fetcook is essentially a large piece of fried dough that is cut open and stuffed with filling. Mine was cheese and jam--fatteningly delicious! Then we settled in for the drive back to Strand, during which I introduced Estelle to In the Heights.











Sunday was a day in Strand. The family watched Top Gear and tennis, and waited for the extended family to arrive for a birthday lunch. Oom Etienne ("Uncle Etienne," Estelle's father) had celebrated a birthday during the previous week, so Estelle's grandparents, aunt, uncle and cousin came for lunch. I again practiced my Afrikaans listening skills! In the afternoon, Estelle and I went to the beach and walked around enjoying some froyo. Then that evening I taught Estelle how to play Phase 10 and she beat me! We must have a rematch....

Friday, June 3, 2011

Roadtripping

The thing about always being busy is that I know how to relax but I also always know there will be tasks to return to when the relaxation ends. I haven’t quite grasped that there is nothing lurking on the other side of the my relaxation. I mean, there are things to do (find an apartment, move to a new state, etc) but everything is on hold for the next 5 weeks. I have 5 weeks to utterly relax—what?! I don’t even know what to do with that! I randomly have moments of panic: I should be somewhere, doing something! But then I have to catch and calm myself. Just breathe. Estelle is much the same way so together we are working on just ‘being.’ This leisurely week has been good for us. We are learning to do nothing!

On Monday we set out from Strand in slightly rainy weather, but soon outdrove the storm. On the way to Estelle’s family’s beach house in Grootbraak the landscape was consistently vast and beautiful, an indication of the week to come. In between numerous and varied car conversations, we stopped to see aloe shops (did you know aloe can be used for just about any skin related problem?), ostrich, and bungee jumping (the bridge ended up being closed—darn it!).









Tuesday morning we drove to George and Knysna to see the scenery. The lakes and forests were beautiful, but the ocean was my personal favourite. Then it was a backtrack to Mosselbaai. I now know quite a bit about the history of Mossel Bay, thanks to an afternoon exploring the Dias Museum Complex. In 1488, Bartholomew Dias was exploring the coast of Africa and sailed past the southern tip without realizing it; after correcting his mistake he ended up at a cove where he found fresh water. This cove was later named Mosselbaai by the Dutch. Today the museum includes a full-size replica of his ship, the fountain of water, a maritime museum and an ethno-botanical garden. Also of note is the old Post Office Tree; as early as 1500, sailors left letters buried near the tree. I needed to send some postcards anyway and this was the first post office I found (it is still in use!) so some of my family will be getting thank-yous for graduation gifts from the tree!






After the museum, Estelle and I went to the lighthouse on the point to see the waves. HUGE waves! The foam from the constant huge waves was so dense that the ocean looked white and frothy. It would be a great surfing place if not for the strong tide and big rocks. Even without surfers to watch, the ocean was so fun that we ended up eating (fish and chips) at a place with an ocean view. Then we went back to the point to watch the ocean at night. Beautiful.



Wednesday found us on the way to Outshoorn. We stopped along the way to see Estelle’s aunt and uncle on their vast farm; they were very nice and I got to practice my Afrikaans listening skills. :) In Outshoorn, we went first to an ostrich farm. Outshoorn is ostrich central so it was required. Ostrich riding was also required. Then it was on to Cango Caves. I particularly enjoyed the tour because our guide was extremely knowledgeable and shared not only about the cave, but how the cave has been changed as a result of tourism. It was sobering to realize just how many crystals and stalagtites have been broken off for souvineers. The evening ended at a VERY fancy restaurant. I opted for the Karoo 4 platter—kudu, ostrich, springbok, and crocodile. Kudu didn’t live up to my memory, making juicy ostrich the favourite of the day!\









Today was more touristy-stuff in Outshoorn as we continued our shortlist of the things people usually do in Outshoorn’s tourism summer. The Cango Wildlife Ranch was much more intriguing than I expected. I’m usually not a fan of zoos, but the enclosures were large and spacious; it also helped to know that the animals rotate between the ranch and the breeding center across the road with its vast spaces. To see the large cats, we walked on wooden bridges over the enclosures; the lack of fences really allowed us to interact with the animals. Also, since we were the only ones around for much of the time we could just stand and watch quietly for as long as we wanted; cheetahs, lions, white tigers, and pumas streched, groomed each other, sprawled on the ground, sneezed (cheetah sneezing=adorable), played with each other, yawned and slept while we gazed on.



After the ranch, we also got up close and personal with another type of animal: the camel. A place down the road had camel rides. Not particularly uncomfortable, but I can’t imagine going on a long trek by camel. After our rides, Estelle and I wandered around the property, seeing the animals and enjoying the warm weather. Outshoorn is semi-desert so it gets very cold at night but warms up during the daytime. Sitting in the sun to eat bobotie (traditional Cape dish with curried minced meat) was a nice end to the day and time in Outshoorn.



From the sounds of it, the next day and a half is driving and eating! Wineries and cheese shops are along the way, as is the port capital of South Africa (port wine) and a place famous for dried fruit. Nom nom nom.

Monday, May 30, 2011

Arrival in South Africa

Well, I'm here. The first thing I thought when I stepped off the plane yesterday was, "It smells like South Africa." Now, I don't think I can describe it any clearer than that, but it's true. It smells the same. My second thought was, "It's not that cold." I am certainly glad that I packed sweaters and a light jacket, but I will not be bemoaning the terrible winter!

I was met at the airport by Estelle and her parents. After collecting my luggage we headed to their home in nearby Strand. It was dark so I didn't see much of the town, but Estelle took me around a little bit today.

Estelle and Me:


Did I mention Strand has mountains AND is on the ocean?!


Fagan Street. Must research the family tree more.



Everyone is indulging me by speaking in English, though Afrikaans is beginning to be integrated into the conversation. Estelle has even given me some children's books to practice with! My brain is struggling to shift from Chinese to Afrikaans. Earlier I was practicing and ended up with: "Bu shu. Dit is nie bijiao lung nie." (That's a lovely mix of both languages if you couldn't guess!) But I can tell that I'm starting to adjust as I hear more Afrikaans. Last night I had strange dreams--language dreams, I call them. They plagued me in China, those dreams that are a result of my brain processing new language and new information; I welcome them now as evidence of my learning!

Tomorrow, Estelle and I start off on a 6-day road trip. I think I've been saying "along the coast" but Estelle is now telling me that's incorrect! It's more of an inland trip, she says, where we will see the Karoo and experience Route 62 (think Route 66 in the US). It's not a total surprise (she's showing me the map right now) but I'll be finding out most of the details along the way. :)

Love to all of you.

Wednesday, May 25, 2011

Returning to RSA

Well, folks, it's that time again. I'm setting off on yet another travel adventure so I'm bringing back the blog!

I will be headed to South Africa this Friday for a lovely 6 week vacation. I'll primarily be staying with my friend Estelle, who lives in Strand. I'll also be spending time in Stellenbosch and Cape Town, as well as exploring more of the surrounding Western Cape.

This map highlights Cape Town and Strand (right on the beach!)and you can easily find Stellenbosch a little north of Strand:



More coming soon!

Wednesday, July 28, 2010

It's Over Already?

Is it really already time for that ending, wrap-up-all-your-feelings blog? How can 5 months go by so slowly and yet so quickly? At once, I feel that I have been in China forever and also that I have barely just arrived!

The past month I have been remiss in blogging. With my time spent researching Beijing Opera and writing an extensive research paper (30+ pages, baby!), as well as preparing for graduate school applications, I have taken every available chance to leave my computer and explore the city. Sitting down to blog when I could go to the beach…well, what would YOU pick?

After successfully combining play with work for a solid couple weeks, I completed a draft of my paper and was rewarded with what essentially vacation in Qingdao. Accompanied by Madison, Lauren, and Hunter, I headed off to visit all those places I wanted to see but hadn’t gotten around to yet!

I consider that last month to be one of my favorite times during my stay in China. Buying fruit in an extended street market, discovering the hidden slums within view of skyscrapers, strolling through the lantern-lit park at night, wandering around the German area of town, bartering for tea-pots on the street—this was the China that I discovered.

I enjoyed life in China much more in the past month than I did in the first 4 months I was here. To be honest, I was conflicted about China for quite a long time. It was a new and exciting adventure that challenged and stretched me, but for a long time I wasn’t sure if I actually LIKED China. I always liked travelling and sightseeing, but when it came to day-to-day life, I just wasn’t sure how I felt.

China is always crowded. For a long time, it was too cold for anyone to be comfortable outside, and yet there were still crowds. I couldn’t communicate. I didn’t like people spitting, shoving or snot-flinging. I couldn’t communicate. Children pee on the sidewalk. The air was polluted. I couldn’t communicate. Added to these frustrations was relationship drama among fellow Missourians, and it made for a stressful experience.

But, gradually things began to shift toward a more positive perspective. Even though I still don’t like many of the things previously pointed out, I learned to be more accepting, adopting the common expat phrase, “Well, it’s China.” The weather grew warmer, so I was able to see more of the city instead of huddling in my room. I also developed language skills that allowed me to converse and be more independent. And I said “goodbye” to those involved in the drama—some as friends, some not.

Then I really got to see Qingdao for myself, not through the eyes of my teachers, classmates, or fellow international students. A little raw from the combination of lingering culture shock and losing friends, I set out to redefine this study abroad experience for myself. I played in the ocean with strangers, watched a Chinese movie projected in the street at dusk, made friends with a tailor and a tea-seller, won arguments with shop-keepers, and took strolls around the city. In the process, I learned to like China and developed a deeper affection for the Chinese people.

Now, I still think that Chinese people are a little strange sometimes. I consider that women’s fashion of wearing panty-hose socks with all types of shoes is weird, as well as the ever-present heels with sweat pants combination. I don’t like that all the men seem to smoke. I’d rather no one forcibly propel me into their store or toward a camera. But these surface things aside, I consider Chinese people to be intrinsically kind. Everyone is connected to each other, resulting in a large community-family mindset.

This idea is easiest to see on trains, where strangers chatter away and the whole car becomes best friends. While I initially didn’t like being approached, and saw it as yet another example of my white skin failing to fit into China, I realized that I was being invited into the community when someone asked where I was from and how I enjoyed China. As soon as I attempted to respond in Chinese, I was in the family—heck, even if I didn’t understand what was being asked and only smiled! While many times I preferred my silence, not wanting to enter into the commotion that would inevitably last the whole train ride, I enjoyed watching the close interactions among people.

In addition to the extended family that exists in China, I was also privileged to gain a host family. My Sundays with the Wang family led me deeper into the reality of Qingdao, introducing me to aspects that I probably never would have discovered as a foreigner. Whether sightseeing, playing in a park, learning card games, or lounging on the living room floor playing checkers, I loved my time with my host family because I really felt that I was living in China, instead of just being a tourist. When I had to say goodbye to my family, we shared presents. My阿姨 (“aunt,” affectionate term for woman of similar age as one’s parent) gifted me a ring that was once her mother’s. It is a tradition to give this ring from mother to daughter; she only has one son and instead of giving it to his future wife, she gave it to me.

The kindness and warmth of the Chinese people is immense. I believe it is what I enjoy most about China, and the people’s affection inspires my own.

I could feel regret that I only developed this mindset toward the end of my time (and indeed, I do—a little), but I am appreciative that I reached this outlook at all. Almost all the international students struggled to adapt to China, with varying degrees of effort and success. Certainly, many of my classmates never got to the point of affection for China, some counting the days until their return to the States and others even leaving early. I’m glad that I outlasted the bad elements and chose to live life in Qingdao.

And it really was just life, no matter how “cool” or “exotic” the idea of my trip may seem to some. I laughed, got sick, studied, lost friends, made friends, found a family, ditched class, discovered foods that I loved, avoided foods I couldn’t stand, cried, watched movies, got scammed out of money, went on dates, worked a job, travelled, went shopping, had a birthday, got lost, gave in and asked for directions, took pictures, passed tests, and became a regular at a restaurant.

At the end of it, I am still myself, if perhaps a little stronger or more independent. I know how I operate and what I value.

I’m forever going to remember experiencing this time with my sister, Madison, who I also get to call friend. We may have bickered occasionally, but I couldn’t have done it without her, and wouldn’t have wanted to! So here’s to her, and here’s to China, for providing us with stories to tell for years!

And here’s to whoever is reading. Thank you for following along. I’m planning to continue using this blog to share stories as I remember them, as well as work through feelings upon my return to the US. You’re welcome to keep reading, though I make no promises about how often I’ll write, or how interesting my thoughts will be. Maybe I’ll see some of you and can share recollections in person. Just be prepared for the inevitable moment when I pause, shake my head and chuckle, “You just had to be there.” Elements of China are simply indescribable. So don’t get annoyed if that happens; go and see for yourself!

再见!

Monday, July 26, 2010

Guess My Nationality

I love overhearing discussions between Chinese people that are attempting to deduce my nationality. If they’ve heard me speaking English, the list includes Canadian, American, English and Australian, with each person sneaking glances at me and then submitting an opinion. I am frequently Canadian. Once I was even asked if I was Irish, a guess that made me smile!

The guesses are more entertaining if I have been silent or only spoken in Chinese. Then the choices are broader, including all of the nationalities previously mentioned, as well as commonly guessed German, Dutch, and Swedish.

And the nationality most often settled on? Russian. Why? No idea. To illustrate this strange occurrence, consider the most recent examples.

A conversation in Chinese while at the train station, boarding a train to Beijing:

Chinese woman: You have quite a lot of luggage.
Me: Yes, I am going to Beijing, then I 回国 (phrase literally meaning, “return country”).
Chinese woman: Russia?
Me: Um, no. USA.
Chinese woman: (pause) Oh. I thought you were Russian.

A few hours later on the train, a conversation in English between Madison and the girl sitting next to her:

Chinese student: Excuse me, where are you from?
Madison: The US. (when the girl looked confused, Madison added in Chinese, 美国)
Chinese student: Oh, at first I thought you were Russian.


???

Tai'an and Qufu

With free time between leaving Qingdao University dorms on July 20 and our plane home on July 26, Madison and I had one last opportunity to travel. While I initially contemplated a stay in Beijing, Madison proposed a quick journey to Tai’an and neighboring Qufu. A few of her friends from Missouri State were working at an English school in Tai’an for the summer; only 6 hours away by train, we were practically next-door neighbors in expansive China!

We decided to make the trip, securing our train tickets and, surprisingly, return tickets—saving us from having to buy return tickets once we arrived in Tai’an, a risky venture that rarely involves procuring the train tickets you actually want! Leaving our luggage with Hunter in Qingdao, we set off. After arriving in Tai’an at night, our taxi driver dropped us off in a place where there was no hostel in sight, swearing it was right around the corner and he couldn’t drive there! We were leery, but he refused to take us any further, so we exited the vehicle and asked some security guards for directions; they ended up escorting us to the hostel located on a pedestrian street that was, indeed, right around the corner.

On our first full day in Tai’an, we spent most of the day…sleeping! After having trouble sleeping in our mold-filled dorm room, it was so nice to be able to breath (as well as have air-conditioning) that we made up for lost time! Upon waking, we wandered around the small city, finding that it held everything that large cities have, except on a smaller scale. No offense to Tai’an, but I really wasn’t impressed with the city. The dirtiness and subtle stink, combined with few sidewalks (which meant walking on the edge of the streets) made wandering around unpleasant. The streets themselves were filled with potholes and, as we discovered later, easily flooded.

Tai’an mostly exists because it sits at the base of Tai Shan, considered one of the five sacred mountains in China and a place where emperors traditionally traveled to worship heaven and earth. In addition, local legend claims that a person who climbs Tai Shan will live to see 100 years! Despite the impressive history, Madison and I passed on the mountain, largely because we didn’t think the view would show anything except pollution. Also, after having climbed Huang Shan’s 1873 m, Tai Shan’s 1533 m didn’t seem as spectacular!

Instead of climbing, we met up with Madison’s friends Weston and Courtney, as well as a couple of other Missouri State students teaching at Camp China. They introduced us to “California Beef Noodle King,” a fast-food type restaurant that provided excellent (guess what?) beef noodles! Madison and I liked the place so much that we returned for dinner the next evening. :)

Thursday morning found us on a comfy air-conditioned bus to Qufu, an hour and a half trip for the low-low price of 20 RMB (about 3 US dollars). Qufu, the birthplace of Confucius, is smaller than Tai’an, but just as hot and dirty. Prior to visiting, I had learned that many people in Qufu will try to cheat tourists, so we were on our guard. The first example came immediately upon arrival to the city, where our first order of business was to buy return tickets; the teller tried to tell us tickets for 44 RMB, but we balked and headed for the next teller, who gave us an accurate price of 21! With the blog post proven, we continued to be careful, avoiding taxis and opting for the bus instead. Of course, we then ran into trouble with badly-labeled English signs, but at least we weren’t cheated!

Eventually, Madison and I found our way into the Confucius temple, which held a multitude of stone tablets mounted on the backs of gigantic turtle statues, as well as the Da Cheng Palace, where people offered sacrifices to Confucius. I most enjoyed the family temple (originally intended for the eldest male direct generational ancestors to worship in private) and the stone tablets inscribed with the family tree.

Confucius’s Cemetery, also called Confucius Forest, was also enjoyable. Entering, I couldn’t help thinking it looked like a scene out of a Tolkien book; Madison agreed, remarking, “Look out for Orcs!” Towering trees shaded us from the sun and cast shadows on the mounded earth covered with grass and undergrowth. It was only a little creepy to realize that each mound was a tomb, and the pleasant forest around us was the largest family graveyard in the world. While many of the graves are unmarked, some of the more important descendants (or richer!) have markers of varying sizes. Confucius’s tomb is particularly large, with a large stone marker indicating the huge grassy mound. His son and grandson are nearby, along with a particularly dedicated disciple.

Leaving the tourist groups at Confucius’s tomb, Madison and I went walking along the main path circling the forest. While dodging tourist vans speeding along, we enjoyed seeing parts of the forests that everyone else bypassed. The Ming tombs were especially interesting, guarded by pairs of stone lions, rams, horses and soldiers. During our stroll, we only saw 2 other people that had opted to walk around the forest, and one was white! The Chinese either rode buses around, or just saw Confucius’s tomb before leaving. What a shame.

Returning to Tai’an, we found that attempting to rip off “those white tourists” was not confined to Qufu. Attempting to return to California Beef Noodle King (doesn’t that name just make you smile?), I got into a spectacular fight with a taxi driver. Though the driver claimed he was driving by the meter, I could see from the passenger seat that the price started too high and climbed too high to be accurate. In Chinese, I pointed out the problem and asked for an explanation, which he could not provide. He eventually stopped the car to try to explain his “accurate” meter to me, but I pointed out that the meter had jumped while we were sitting still and Madison and I opened our doors to leave the vehicle. At that point, he offered me a flat fee of 10 RMB to get to our destination. Considering the meter was already at 9.5, I considered it an indication of guilt, but decided to go along, as 10 was very reasonable for the distance and it’s really hard to find taxis in Tai’an! Considering we hit traffic jams and had to take a lengthy detour, Madison and I definitely got the better end of the deal! The driver had turned off the meter when it hit 10, but I would have been curious to know how much it racked up by the time we finally got to the restaurant!

After eating and returning to the hostel, I went out to the pedestrian street to see if a movie was being projected on a screen, as it had on previous nights. As the first night I watched part of a Tom Cruise action movie, while the next night there was a Chinese drama playing as I walked by, I guessed it was a nightly tradition. Little more than a homemade screen in the middle of the street, the evening movie gathers a crowd, with people sitting on benches, stools, and between the parked mopeds. Old men smoke, children skateboard in the back, and mothers sit with sleeping babies. Workers in the restaurants that line the street even pull tables and chairs outside so patrons can eat or drink while they watch.

That evening, the movie was a Chinese martial arts film. Equipped with plenty of water to counter the sweltering heat, I settled onto the ground to watch extraordinary fight scenes and a story-line simple enough for me to follow once I differentiated between the “good guy” and the “bad guy.” At the end of the film, the good guy had lost his girl and turned into a drunk, somehow winding up drunkenly fighting in a boxing ring: Chinese vs. Westerners. To my amusement, the owner of the Western team was American, meaning that I could understand his English while the lack of subtitles meant my fellow viewers couldn’t, leaving them in the same boat I was in during the Chinese sections! A girl of about 6 who had steadily inched closer to me throughout the film, shyly asked what the man said. It was quite fun to translate threatening one liners like “If you lose, don’t come back” (如果你不赢的话,就不回来)and “A Chinese man can’t win.” (一个中国的人不能赢). I didn’t quite manage “Finish him,” but I don’t think my friend really cared.

Participating in the movie event was my favourite part of Tai’an (and ranks among my best memories in China), though Tai’an is also memorable because of the Daoist Temple we visited on our finally day. After seeing many Buddhist Temple and a Confucius Temple, we were excited to finally see a Daoist Temple. Of course, it looked like most of the other temples, except with more nature! A drizzly day meant a lack of tour groups, so we wandered under trees and through gardens at our leisure. When rain poured down, we took shelter under umbrellas, archways and pagodas as we slowly made our way back to the entrance. Damp, we made our way through flooded streets to the train station. Even though I enjoyed parts of the Tai’an trip, I can’t say I wasn’t happy to go back to beautiful Qingdao!